Dali Travel Guide: Erhai Lake, Cangshan Mountain & Old Town

By AURUM Travel Guides · Updated January 2026 · 8 min read

Dali is the city most travelers picture when they think of "romantic southwest China." Set between the 250-square-kilometer Erhai Lake and the 4,000-meter Cangshan range, it combines Bai minority culture, a laid-back old town, and landscapes that change color every hour. This Dali travel guide walks you through the three highlights — Erhai Lake, Cangshan Mountain, and Dali Old Town — with concrete routes, entrance details, and accommodation picks for each area so you can plan a trip that actually works.

Whether you have two days or a full week, the key is understanding how the three zones fit together geographically: the Old Town sits at the foot of the mountains on the lake's western shore, Erhai's ring road circles the entire lake, and Cangshan's trailheads begin a short walk from the Old Town's west gate.

Erhai Lake: Cycling and Driving Routes

Erhai Lake is roughly 42 km north-to-south and 7 km east-to-west. The full ring road is about 130 km and can be driven in a day, but cycling it requires two relaxed days. Most travelers do the western shore (flat, through villages) or the eastern shore (cliffs, open water views).

Western Shore: Caicun to Xizhou

Start at Caicun Pier, a 10-minute walk from the Old Town's south gate. The western shore road runs through farmland and Bai villages with lake views to your right. Key stops:

• Caicun Pier — cheapest boat tickets to the lake's three islands (Jinsuo, Yuji, Xiaoputuo). Small boats cost 50–80 RMB per person; hire privately if you're a group of four.
• Longkan Wharf — a quieter alternative to Caicun, better for sunrise photography. Water taxis to Cai village on the eastern shore depart here.
• Xizhou Village — 18 km north of the Old Town, famous for well-preserved Bai "three-front courtyard" houses and the Yan Family Compound (ticket 60 RMB). Try Xizhou baba, a local flatbread baked in a clay oven.

Eastern Shore: Shuanglang to Haishe Park

The eastern shore has the lake's best panoramas because you look back toward Cangshan's 19 peaks. The stretch from Shuanglang south to Haishe Park is the most scenic:

• Shuanglang — once a fishing village, now the lake's most popular resort town. The waterfront promenade is free; the Yu Tong Island viewpoint costs 50 RMB.
• Xiaoputuo — a tiny island with a single Buddhist temple, reachable by 5-minute boat ride from the eastern shore. Best photographed at dawn.
• Haishe Park — at the lake's southern tip, this park has the classic "Cangshan reflected in Erhai" composition. Entry 30 RMB.

Practical tip: E-bike rental in the Old Town costs 50–80 RMB per day with a 40 km range — enough for the western shore loop but not the full ring. For the full circuit, rent a car with a driver (600–900 RMB/day) or take the public bus 6 to Cai village then walk.

Cangshan Mountain: Hiking Entrances and Trails

Cangshan's 19 peaks rise directly behind the Old Town. The mountain has three main access points, each with different difficulty and scenery.

1. Gantong Cableway (Easiest Access)

The Gantong cableway starts at the southern end of the Old Town and ascends to 2,600 meters. From the upper station, the Yudai Cloud Road (Jade Belt Road) is a flat 18-km stone path carved along the mountainside at roughly 2,600 meters elevation. You can walk north along it for 2–3 hours with constant lake views. The cableway round trip costs 282 RMB including the Jade Belt Road access fee.

2. Zhonghe Cableway (Middle Route)

Starting from the Old Town's west gate, this smaller cableway goes to Zhonghe Peak at 3,260 meters. It's quieter than Gantong and gives access to the Zhonghe Temple trail, a 1.5-hour round-trip hike to a small Daoist temple with panoramic views. Round trip 180 RMB.

3. Qingbi Stream Trail (Hiking Only)

For hikers who want to climb on foot, the Qingbi Stream trailhead is 2 km south of the Old Town. The trail ascends through forest for about 3 hours to the Jade Belt Road, passing three waterfalls. Entrance fee 40 RMB. Start before 9 AM — afternoon clouds often obscure the peaks after 2 PM.

Altitude note: Dali sits at 2,000 meters; the Jade Belt Road at 2,600 meters. Most travelers feel fine, but drink water and avoid heavy exertion on day one if you came directly from sea level.

Dali Old Town and Accommodation Choices

Dali Old Town is a grid of stone-paved streets inside the original Ming-dynasty walls. The south and north gates and the central Renmin Road define its layout. Where you stay dramatically shapes your experience.

Old Town — Best for First-Time Visitors

Staying inside the Old Town puts you within walking distance of restaurants, bars, and the western trailheads. Guesthouses in renovated Bai courtyards cost 200–400 RMB/night. Avoid Renmin Road itself if you're a light sleeper — the bars run late. The area near the south gate is quieter and has more budget options (120–200 RMB).

Caicun — Best for Lake Access

Caicun is a 10-minute walk from the Old Town's south gate but sits directly on the lake. If your priority is Erhai sunrises or boat trips, stay here. Boutique lake-view hotels run 400–800 RMB/night. The trade-off: fewer restaurant options in the evening.

Shuanglang — Best for Atmosphere

Shuanglang on the eastern shore has become the lake's premium destination. renovated fisherman houses converted into design hotels (600–1,500 RMB/night). The eastern shore sunset over Cangshan is the reason to stay here. Budget guesthouses are harder to find — book early in peak season (July–August, Chinese New Year).

Accommodation Quick Comparison

Food: What and Where to Eat

Dali's food is Bai cuisine — lighter than Sichuanese, with sour and spicy notes. Dishes to seek out:

• Rushing (rushan) — deep-fried cheese strings made from goat or cow milk, served with sugar or rose jam. Unique to the Dali region.
• Er Kuai — rice cake sliced and stir-fried with vegetables and meat. Try it at breakfast stalls on Renmin Road.
• Sour and Spicy Fish — Erhai lake fish cooked with pickled vegetables and dried chili. Best in Caicun waterfront restaurants.
• Three-Course Tea — a Bai tea ceremony with bitter, sweet, and aftertaste courses, often served at cultural shows in Xizhou.

Practical Information

• Getting there: Dali Airport (DLU) has flights from Kunming, Chengdu, and Guangzhou. Most travelers take the high-speed train from Kunming (2 hours, 145 RMB) to Dali Station, then bus 8 or a taxi (30 RMB) to the Old Town.
• Best season: March to October. March–April for blossoms and clear mountain views; October for comfortable temperatures. Avoid July–August rains if you plan to hike Cangshan.
• Altitude: 2,000 m at the lake, up to 4,000 m on the peaks. Acclimatize one day before hiking.
• Money: ATMs in the Old Town. Most hotels and mid-range restaurants accept WeChat Pay and Alipay; carry 200–300 RMB cash for village stalls.

Suggested 3-Day Dali Itinerary

1. Day 1: Arrive, settle into Old Town accommodation. Walk Renmin Road, visit the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple (6 km north, entry 121 RMB). Dinner in the Old Town.
2. Day 2: Erhai Lake loop. Rent an e-bike, cycle the western shore to Xizhou (lunch), take a boat across from Caicun, return via Shuanglang on the eastern shore. Watch sunset at Haishe Park.
3. Day 3: Cangshan Mountain. Take Gantong cableway up, walk the Jade Belt Road north for 2–3 hours, descend via Zhonghe cableway. Farewell dinner in Shuanglang.

This itinerary balances the three highlights without rushing. If you have only two days, combine Day 2 and Day 3 by doing a half-day Erhai western shore ride and a half-day Cangshan cableway visit.